Century of Good Housekeeping recipes shows UK seafood choices narrowed to five species

Mixed · 2A study by Dr Ruth Thurstan of the University of Exeter, who works at the Centre for Ecology and Conservation on the Penryn Campus in Cornwall, analysed seafood recipes in the British edition of Good Housekeeping from 1923 to the present, and concludes that the range of fish in domestic recipes has narrowed. 1 2 Mixed · 2The Guardian describes more than 1,000 recipes, while the Daily Mail gives a figure of 1,192; 67 species appeared in recipes over the century. 1 2 Mixed · 2Since the 1970s a "big five" of cod, haddock, tuna, salmon and prawns has dominated; the Guardian says they account for more than 60% of all mentions, while the Mail says they appear in well over half of recipes. Recipes featuring oysters, flatfish, herring and lobster have declined. 1 2

Mixed · 2Thurstan describes three phases: before the 1970s a diverse mix of species, with flatfish, herring and oysters prominent and an emphasis on domestic skills, economy and preparing whole fish; a decline in diversity from the 1970s; and from the 1980s to now the big five in most recipes. 1 2 Mixed · 2Examples include 1920s and 30s oyster cocktail, lobster canapes, halibut steaks in milk, fish baked in custard and oyster soup; 1940s rationing-era Ministry of Food recipes, including curried whale meat; and, in recent years, more "aspirational" dishes such as gochujang sticky cod and miso prawn skewers. 1 2 Mixed · 2Thurstan stresses this was not simply about availability: herring, oyster and lobster can still be bought, but readers were shown and encouraged to cook fewer species. The Mail adds that she says recipes are not a direct measure of consumption, and that the shift reflects changes in fish supply, trade and supply chains rather than naturally conservative British tastes. 1 2

Right · 1The Mail reports that the paper links the change to falling UK catches from overfishing and later stock-rebuilding rules, and to the growth of supermarkets and frozen foods. It says the big five are depleted or absent in UK waters, so imports rose, and that the UK now imports more than six times as much seafood as in 1900. 2 Mixed · 2Both outlets cite the big five as about 80% of UK fish consumption; the Guardian attributes this to the Marine Stewardship Council. It also reports Thurstan's warning of environmental costs: cod, haddock and shrimp fishing can damage habitats and salmon farming is under scrutiny. 1 2 Left · 1The paper, titled "Declines in the diversity of fish represented in British domestic recipes over the past 100 years", is due to be published in the journal People and Nature. Thurstan has tried some recipes, finding the 1920s fish baked in custard, made with pollack, not sweet and promising, and plans to try oyster soup and kipper cream. 1